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Rear Sway Bar Upgrade: The Single Best Suspension Mod for your Focus RS

This is a discussion on Rear Sway Bar Upgrade: The Single Best Suspension Mod for your Focus RS within the Focus RS Suspension forums, part of the Focus RS Garage category; I don't think a stiffer rear bar is going to be a good choice for autox. The car already dog legs significantly and the rear ...

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Thread: Rear Sway Bar Upgrade: The Single Best Suspension Mod for your Focus RS

  1. #91
    gtg
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    I don't think a stiffer rear bar is going to be a good choice for autox. The car already dog legs significantly and the rear is loose in aggressive rapid offsets and in slaloms. With the nose dive of threshold braking and camber loss, a front bar will hopefully help fight that and also help turn in while keeping the rear more stable. There is ongoing discussion in the autox thread related to this.

    If the rear of your car isn't loose in the situations referenced, I would recommend you check alignment if not already done. My car had an 1/8" of toe in from the factory front and rear and prior to correcting that, the rear didn't want to move at all. My car rotates on entry in high speed sweepers now as well with the stock rear bar. It's just the lower speed stuff where it doesn't want to rotate on entry especially if I still have the front end loaded heavily.
    Sleeper likes this.

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    What are you running in the rear....Zero toe?

  3. #93
    gtg
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    Quote Originally Posted by lflouie View Post
    What are you running in the rear....Zero toe?
    Not quite 1/64th out total. Please keep in mind due to bushing deflection, the dynamic toe will be slightly less. I mentioned around 1/16th toe out up front in the autox thread but it is really closer to 3/32nd's.

    I often hear people say they want to zero out toe front and rear because they are concerned about tire wear. Camber will have an effect on the tire wanting to travel in a straight line. Consider rolling a tire that is flat and then roll one on its edge. Which one goes straight? 0 toe with negative camber will lead to more wear than a slight bit of toe due to this effect.

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    ^^^Interesting! Is that your DD and autox setup? Which tires are you using?

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    Quote Originally Posted by lflouie View Post
    ^^^Interesting! Is that your DD and autox setup? Which tires are you using?
    Yes, DD (9300 miles since July) and alignment settings are not changed for events. I ran both the Rival S 245/40R18 and Bridgestone RE-71R 255/35R18. B Street trim with just alignment, wheels, drop in filter, and tires. I plan to drill the stock front bar initially to make it stiffer since there is room to shorten the mounting points and also likely will give the 265/35R18 a try this year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gtg View Post
    Yes, DD (9300 miles since July) and alignment settings are not changed for events. I ran both the Rival S 245/40R18 and Bridgestone RE-71R 255/35R18. B Street trim with just alignment, wheels, drop in filter, and tires. I plan to drill the stock front bar initially to make it stiffer since there is room to shorten the mounting points and also likely will give the 265/35R18 a try this year.
    I'm a street only driver and would like a little better turn-in but mostly I want to try to minimize the outer 1" wear band on the front tires. Currently running ~ -1.5 front camber with zero toe and ~ 1/16" toe in and -0.9 rear camber. Thinking about changing front toe from zero to 1/16" toe out.....will that help?

    Are you planning to run a stiffer front bar....it so which one?

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    Quote Originally Posted by markboris View Post
    I installed both front and rear Steeda sway bars. To answer the question about end links, I replaced the stock ones with Whiteline KLC151 front and KLC198 rear heavy duty adjustable end links. As far as urethane bushings making noise, I've never had any noise issues since I started using bushing lube from Poly Bushings. My 2007 F150 (220K miles), 2011 Ranger (60K miles) and 2014 Escape (70K miles) all have upgraded sway bars with urethane bushings and none of those vehicles have one bit of noise from them.
    Any feedback on the handling?

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    Quote Originally Posted by lflouie View Post
    Any feedback on the handling?
    I barely got to drive it before we started being bombarded with rain which is still happening. I did drive is for a hour or so after the install and believe I had said it was definitely more flat. I cannot comment on how the rear bar effected the handling since I did both at the same time but front and rear seem more similar now in being planted. This showed up today so I am going to start on this install tonight.

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  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by lflouie View Post
    I'm a street only driver and would like a little better turn-in but mostly I want to try to minimize the outer 1" wear band on the front tires. Currently running ~ -1.5 front camber with zero toe and ~ 1/16" toe in and -0.9 rear camber. Thinking about changing front toe from zero to 1/16" toe out.....will that help?

    Are you planning to run a stiffer front bar....it so which one?
    Yes, do a 1/16" toe out up front, 0 toe or ~1/64" toe out in the rear and a stiffer front bar. Camber is good. That will help turn in and decrease the wear band you referenced. Also make sure you are running 40psi or more up front. I typically run around 36 in the rear. These are pressures at temp though I start with the same cold pressures and bleed down when autox'ing. For the street, I would start at these pressures cold and not adjust.

    I plan to do this to my front bar. Thanks StealthRS for the proof of concept!
    RS suspension theories on handling and ride - "pogoing"

    Edit: I think you may already have a rear bar in which case you might want to keep the toe in.
    Last edited by gtg; 01-12-2017 at 01:21 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gtg View Post
    Yes, do a 1/16" toe out up front, 0 toe or ~1/64" toe out in the rear and a stiffer front bar. Camber is good. That will help turn in and decrease the wear band you referenced. Also make sure you are running 40psi or more up front. I typically run around 36 in the rear. These are pressures at temp though I start with the same cold pressures and bleed down when autox'ing. For the street, I would start at these pressures cold and not adjust.

    I plan to do this to my front bar. Thanks StealthRS for the proof of concept!
    RS suspension theories on handling and ride - "pogoing"

    Edit: I think you may already have a rear bar in which case you might want to keep the toe in.
    Thanks for the front toe recommendation. Since I'm street only and want to preserve the front tire edges, I've been running 42 or 43 front cold psi and 39 rear. This combo seems to provide the balance and grip wo/as much front edge wear. I prefer my street driven cars to minimal oversteer hence this setup works pretty good...but slight toe out should help.

    I decided to go back to the stock rear bar bc with my current setup in colder weather it was looser than I'd like. I'm on MPSS so the additional bar stiffness is just a little more than I want, especially in cold we conditions. Since it is used year around the stock bar will be an acceptable tradeoff. In the summer on sticky/wider tires the bigger bar would be a sweet add on.

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