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Rockford Fosgate DSR1 and Maestro software to go with aftermarket stereo system

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144K views 255 replies 34 participants last post by  MorningZ  
#1 · (Edited)
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Purpose:
  • Short version: the signal coming out of the OEM radio is a digital signal not an analog signal. Super simple example: turning up the volume knob doesn't actually increase the level of output from the radio, instead it is telling the amplifier to increase it's output levels. The DSR1 and Maestro harness translates all this to your supplied amplifier(s).
  • Full version from Rockford Fosgate's site: Co-developed with ADS, the DSR1 combines a full-featured 3Sixty digital signal processor with a flash-able iDatalink Maestro integration module. The DSR1 can be used out-of-the-box with high or low level input, or with a quick flash download to add vehicle specific firmware to enable integration without the loss of factory equipped controls and features. Once connected, complete control of the sound profile can be adjusted using the proprietary Rockford Fosgate PerfectTune software.

Hardware:

Software/Updates (as of Nov 19, 2020):
There are two "sides" of the processor. The Rockford/3Sixty/firmware part, and the iDataLink Maestro part, which is the software to integrate into the CAN-BUS

For the Rockford side, 3/4s down this page has the directions for the Rockford DSR1 updater software (v2.1.1) and the most current firmware (v1.9.4), which as I type this here Nov 2020 is dated at 5/29/2019. I'd guess that they have no plans to continue to develop for the device.

For the Maestro side, earlier this year they released "Weblink Desktop" that works on both Mac and Windows. From my (limited) experience with it, it is still plagued with USB connection issues, but I have gotten it to work a few times to keep it updated, so in other words, it seems to work "well enough". Most of the Rockford support page I linked to in the last paragraph deals with the install and usage of this software, so follow along with it to get set up.

Support for the product:
If you have any issues with it, the iDatalink forums are a great resource. Dara that works for iDatalink watches over that forum and tries to help absolutely everyone who posts. She is also super easy to talk to on the phone (you'll more than likely get her if you call iDatalink's support line and go through the menu for Maestro support). I had called over there yesterday because I lost bass signal in my system, I haven't yet determined if it is fault of the DSR1 or my amp (or something else, edit wire came loose at my sub box's terminal cup connection).

- Looks like iDatalink has FINALLY gotten around the "Windows/Internet Explorer" thing: Weblink Desktop. It works on both Mac and Windows and takes care
(All the following is no longer the case with new desktop app, i'll flat out remove all this once confirmed)

    • Rockford Fosgate's DSR1 Updater Software (download here) : current version as of June 18th, 2018 -> v2.1.1
    • DSR1 firmware (same link as above): current version as of Aug 08th, 2018 -> v1.7.0.0
    • A link to step by step instructions posted later in this thread: post #147 on this thread
This is outdated, a great step by step is available here on Rockford's site
- NOTE! You'll need a Windows machine and Internet Explorer to do the installs and updates. There are no provisions/software for anything else. Works fine on Mac!

Misc Notes:
  • Right off the bat: using the DSR1 is if you want to replace the Sony amplifier, as this takes the place of it and does not work side by side. So say for instance you are looking to just "add a sub", this would not be the path to take. Look into using the AudioControl LC2i and tap onto the Sony amp's subwoofer output (wire colors off the Sony amp are here in a markboris post, second picture).
  • An alternative to the DSR1 is the Pac-Audio AP4-FD21, you can find information about it here on their site, there is also a multi-page thread here on this forum talking about it. I never looked into using it myself, so I personally do not know a lot of details about it.
  • This hardware setup is only super helpful if you have the premium Sony system in your RS. The DSR1 still works as a great processor no matter what, but it's main gist in the realm of the Focus is to handle the Sync3/Sony's data signals and convert them into usable audio signals. (this is not needed in some other market's top of the line RS's)
  • The "Fake Engine Noise Generator" (aka "FENG") does indeed still work when plugged in. If you don't want this noise in your car, you can completely pull it out of the car.
  • When you update the DSR1 firmware or Maestro software, you are supposed to disconnect it from the car so it's only powered up by the mini USB cable, I've found it's easier to disconnect the blue Maestro plug which is what powers the DSR1. The plugs that go into the DSR1 directly are flimsy, so I try not to mess with them.


More help:
- Great video explaining, why the DSR1 is needed and how it fits into the system:


- A 10 minute walkthrough of the PerfectTune mobile application used to set time alignment, crossover points and equalization settings. He talks/moves fast so keep up.


- Some screenshots of the PerfectTune app's settings.






My system consists of:
  • the DSR + PLC remote bass knob
  • two Audison amps (under the metal mesh on passenger side there), one being the AP4D with a channel per door
  • Each door has a set of Audison Voce 6.5" components
  • The other Audison amp is an AP1D that powers a single JL Audio shallow mount 13TW5 with 400 watts
  • There is also storage under the amp side kind of like what the stock RS trunk insert had


347060




- Not my car/video: but an up and running system in an ST with the DSR1 installed, not really a lot on the inner workings on it, but it is a fully working install

 
#2 ·
Interesting.. I happen to have a couple of old 2/3/4 channel Sony MOSFET amps ( think they are XM-754HX) as well as an old Sony 10 band Passive EQ (though with this I don't think the EQ is needed) in the garage needing a home.. No, must resist and keep car stock. I'm am looking forward to install when you get there. But, very likely will be putting all of that in the new 00 Civic EX work car. Still waiting on Android Auto Wireless supporting aftermarket headunit for that car though.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
I'd guess *yes* since the FENG is part of the DSP unit which I think is left intact (the Mastero stuff kind of plugs inline where the amp is/was)

RF's tech support, or better yet, Maestro's support will be able to answer that for sure
 
#7 ·
Sooo the point of this is that now we get the functionality of the Maestro AR + DSP and then we can connect to any amp we want?
 
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#10 · (Edited)
Anyone else have a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 on preorder?

I could, but videos are better!!

So here is the Sony Sync3 head unit + $100 Mastro AR module + the $800 Kenwood XR600 amp + you'll need a second amp for subwoofer. This video explains the whole flow of the audio signal, it's challenges, and how this combination solves those challenges




So keeping what you just watched in mind, the $250 Rockford piece is that Mastro AR unit *and* Rockford's own 3Sixty.3 DSP solution + *your own amps*



So in both cases, the Mastro hardware converts the signal (which is CAN-BUS) into it's own language (Maestro) and in turn hands it the audio signal off to the DSP (whether built into the Kenwood amp or built into the Rockford Unit)
 
#12 · (Edited)
#15 ·
Well sheeeeeeeeeiiiiiiiit ?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
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#16 ·
ILink does not have the custom flashs ready for download yet. Rockford designed the hardware and ILink is designing the software flash's.. DSR1 is currently being shipped with a default flash. If you did not order your "T" interface cable for your RS, go back to Rockford and order it now. It wasn't available 2 months ago when I ordered my DSR1. The interface cable doesn't come with the DSR1.

My DSR1 arrived today. Device drivers are installed on my laptop and I'm waitting for the Ford Focus RS flash. ( I've determined the USB interface to the DSR1 is FTDI chip based, and Ive done work with using FTDI tech in some of my designs) My interface cable will be here tommarrow becuase I had to go back and order it last Monday

There are no install manuals or custom flashs avaible yet. I was told they are coming. Rockford changed the release
Date so it kind of screwed ILinks schedule up on the flash release date..

We have some other current issues if you guys want to run multiple amplifiers over 1000 watts and I'll explain the Alternator issue later...prob in another thread

I'll be posting pics and updates on my builds progress...

Anyway, DSR1 is coming fellas so get ready!!!

GZ
 

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#17 ·
Can you explain what the purpose of the RS specific flash is? Honestly I'm still a little vague on how this box fits into the audio system. If you pull the factory amp out and put this in, then you can drive the speakers off any amp you choose? Just RF amps? Are the speakers individually amped/how many amp channels do I need?
 
#18 ·
Any amps you want, watch the 5 min video I posted earlier in this thread and it answers your questions

The flash is because this RF piece works across Ford and Chrysler so it needs to be taught what to look for


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
Promit,

Yes, MoringZ is correct. You can run any amp you want. Basically the larger of the 2 amps on the Sony 8? touch screen factory stereo in the Focus RS trunk is removed. The DRS1 is plugged in to the removed amps wiring harness, via a ?T? cable. The DRS1 has RCA outputs that get plugged in to your NEW Amps. The entire factory stereo system speakers can now be upgraded. Front doors, read doors, and subs?(You DON?T need to run RF)



Now lets talk about the next issue we are going to have because its tied to this one. ?Current? is going to be an issue. The car doesn?t generate enough Amps to run anything over a 1000 watt amplifier. You?re probably going to need a very efficient one at that. I would recommend a 5 channel amp to drive all the speakers, including the subs. Something like the Rockford Fosgate T1000X5ad 1,000 Watt Class ?AD? 5-Channel Amplifier. A ?GH? class hybrid, like a boat amp would work well also because they don?t draw a lot of current. Wet Sounds makes good stuff, and all there PCB boards are water/moisture resistant.

To any amplifier in a higher wattage class, you will need back up batteries, and even at that ,you?re going to need a way to charge them. Factory alternator wont charge them fast enough after the batteries discharge.. Hence, a built 240 or 320 Amp alternator upgrade would be the typical solution, but its currently not an option in the Ford RS. Not That I?m aware of? I have talked to the best, Mechman Alternators in Ohio, and they said it CANT be done due the CANBUS controlled regulator that Ford uses.. When I asked Mechman to build me one, this was his response??

Hello,

No I?m sorry I do not. I can?t even see good technical data on the 2017 Focus but I know I can?t build the 2016 due to the CANBUS controlled regulator Ford is using on that model.

Sorry I can?t help with that one,
 
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#21 · (Edited)
I don't need a ton of power in a car, IME around 30W RMS of clean power to each discrete channel (x4) plus 200W to drive the sub is perfectly reasonable for me. I can get away with a Power Pack and a self-amped sub. Still have to run a separate circuit off the battery, but not remotely enough draw to stress the alternator.

I dunno how some of the car audio stuff gets to such high power numbers, unless they're peak ratings or just rated at absurd THDs. 1400W RMS is enough to drive my home theater with both subs hitting subsonics, but that's honest power output at 0.05% THD. I see the Alpine Power Pack is rated at 1%, so maybe that's where the disconnect is coming from.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I saw that the DSR1 has a USB port on it for (initial?) setup, not sure if that's something I'll want to access later on or not so I purchased a long mirco-USB to USB-A cable for $9. I'll be running this along with whatever else I need to run from front to back (which at this point as I map out my system will just be the cable for the bass knob for my RF amp, this USB cable mentioned, and a power wire for the amps)

I know the RF app on iOS and Android talks to the unit via Bluetooth but not sure what the other setup is about (## Edit: the USB port is for flashing both the DSR1 hardware and Maestro software ##)... i'll be covered if it's anything to worry about i guess.
 
#23 ·
Ok another peice of the puzzle has arrived. I still have to run VCC and GRN wires for the amp this weekend before I can sort out the DSR1 wiring . Yep, you guessed it, NO INSTALL MANUAL with the T cable interface.. looks like we are going to have figure this out together , the hard way, to help everybody else on the site with their installs down the road fellas... we will get it..no worries!!

GZ

Yes the Bluetooth is class 4 so it should have a pretty long range
 

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#24 ·
Finally had a chance to look over how all this stuff properly. Definitely want to install this in the near future, hoping the wiring comes together with no serious trouble. The other Ford/Sony systems in the Focus/ST/etc have the same exact system, right? Somebody's gotta know how to put it all in.
 
#25 ·
Not sure if the ST runs the Sony system or not. Can anybody answer that?

I got this pretty much put together in my head already, but I haven't looked at the molex connectors on the factory amplifiers wiring harness. If there is going to be a wiring issue , it's going to be at the factory wiring harness pin out. See we don't have sonys or fords wiring schematics...it will all have to be hand traced back, or tested,from the harness to the car,sub, and doors...I'm more worried about the default flash the DSR1 was shipped with, and not the wiring so much

I believe we will be one of, if not the first Ford forum sites to have it up and working. We will be the ones writing the "How Too" for this on the Fords.. I haven't heard a word on any other sites yet...those poor bastards over at the Crysler forums donno whatever hit 'em.... They are problably clueless

GZ

If your following this thread and haven't downloaded Rockfords Fosgates "Perfect Tune" app yet, please go to apples App Store or the google apps store and download it to your phone.
 
#36 ·
markboris said:
View attachment 219434 View attachment 219442

Not sure this is what you are looking for but this is the speaker schematic.
Click to expand...
Good man Markboris..!!!! Yes, I believe this is what we needed..Thank you sir!!

Ok, what we are going to do here fellas is come out of the DSR1 interface via RCA cables to our NEW external Amplifier. Now we will have to re-use the exiting speaker wires that go from the old factory Sony AMP to the front and rear speakers. So we will need the color coding chart for each speaker. Each speaker wire will have to be wired to the new AMP's Speaker Output, and the speaker ouputs has nothing to do with the DSR1, they will now be coming from the new amp. The second harness in the DSR1 box does not support SUB Output, so we are kind of stuck going all RCA. Low level would have worked but RCA is better anyway......Sum it up...SO its DSR1 to the NEW amp via RCA, and then out of the new amp using old existing door speaker wires. Some guys may want to Upgrade the factory speaker wire while they got the door panels off for speaker upgrades.. That's probably what I'll do... Ok, everybody picking up what Im putting down?

GZ
 
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