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Upr catch or Radium dual catch setup.

34K views 84 replies 32 participants last post by  turbojr74 
#1 ·
So radium just released there dual catch can setup for the crank case and pcv, so now iam torn in which setup I should order the radium dual can setup or the UPR catch can setup.

Catch Can Kit, 2013+ Focus EcoBoost


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#49 ·
Sleeper was there a reason behind putting the plug in the original port location and using the second hole for the PCV?
 
#50 ·
You can use either or. Putting the pcv on the side that I used makes for a cleaner install and less hose when using the radium catch can. It's bascially a straight shot when you put the pcv on the left side.

Side notes: it's awesome the radium uses a dip stick. Way easier to monitor when you have to empty he cans. Also having the petcocks makes it that much easier. You can see where I routed both lines to come out of the splash shield. That way you can open both valves and empty into a container easily.

The baffle plates are pretty much identical except the fact that the radium has a better pcv than oem. Aside from the fact that you have to assemble everything from radium. So just make sure you have some blue loctite.

Other than the the install is fairly straight forward. Radium has awesome directions that you can download. The pcv side can and the crankcase (valve cover to intake) are slightly different. But you won't be able to swap them because the side ports are different sizes. Having the smaller battery tray from Grimmspeed will make draining the crankcase one very easy.

All in all if you have the Grimmspeed tray, I would just get one petcock for the pcv can. Saves some money and routing the crankcase drain line is a little difficult because you have to clear the shifter cables.
 
#62 ·
You can reuse them. I've reused mine twice now haha. The mountune baffle requires you to cut the tab off the gasket. You don't have to on the radium because it's machined out for the tab

Installing both cans is the hardest part. Removing the intake manifold and baffle plate is pretty dang easy. You can watch out install of the mountune plate to get an idea if that. But following the instruction on radiums site for the cans is really straight forward.

FWIW I just installed a radium baffle and pcv can. Took about 30 minutes. Installing the crankcase can takes a bit more time just in itself due to lack of room and how the can mounts.
 
#75 · (Edited)
The way Radium describes their plate is highly confusing. This is the way I read it. There are 2 options:

- Option 1 is the plate only (with baffles) for $99.95. I am not sure who would by just the plate only. You would have to have additional fittings and what not to make it work.

- Option 2 has the plate (with baffles), an Aluminum 10AN ORB PCV Valve, an Aluminum 10AN ORB Plug and Stainless Steel Hose Clamp. This one sells for $129.95. So this one replaces the OEM PCV check valve. Radium's description reads "Because the OEM Ford PCV valve leaks at all boost levels, this kit includes Radium's own 10AN ORB PCV Valve which prevents boost from leaking into the crankcase.". The confusing messaging is "The OEM configuration kit includes all parts necessary for a plug and play installation and can be used with the OEM PCV tubing or with aftermarket". Clearly option 2 replaces the OEM PCV valve so no longer is it OEM. Yet it uses "OEM PCV tubing". Confusing

Again, why would anyone pick option 1 unless you are sourcing all the necessary fittings. I can see a hardcore track car venting to atmosphere picking this option but the majority of us would pick option 2 at $129.95.
 
#79 ·
Sorry, I will get that wording updated. Reading it now I see how it can be misleading.

OEM configuration means it'll work with the OEM lines or any catch can designed to work with the OEM lines (including theirs), however it does replace the valve with their own better one.

Just the baffle is exactly that, just the baffle in case you want to do your own lines and can setup.
 
#83 ·
Finally got my Radium setup installed. Very, very, very high quality stuff. If you are comfortable with removing your intake manifold, (you should be, it's very easy) installation is not difficult.

My '16 RS has just over 2,100 miles. I did a very easy, but progressive break-in, started going full boost around 750mi, changed oil at 1,000mi w/Amsoil 5W50 and installed Accessport w/Tune+ tune and their Denso plugs. Since then, when I drive it, I drive it - fwiw in terms of carbon build up on the intake valves. When I pulled the intake, there was very very minimal carbon build up on #2 but overall everything looked good. It's not easy getting a good pic, but this was the best shot I could get:

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Anyway, here are a few pics of the install.

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Engine Vehicle Auto part Car Automotive engine part


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I also opted for the remote drain setup for both cans. You can locate the PCV can drain valve in a way that is easily accessible - the crankcase can drain valve however, is a different story. Space is tight no matter how you route it, so I just put the drain valve under the air box. I figured the air box is easy to remove and it's not like I'll be doing it super often. I routed both lines down through the inner fender, modified a hose holder clip, cut the hoses at an angle so they kind of sit up against the belly pan to attempt to minimize debris clogging them up.

Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive wheel system Vehicle


Overall, I would highly recommend this setup. My only complaints are minor:

  • too many different hex sizes! 1 or 2 sizes for included hardware would be nice.
  • who honestly owns a 1 1/8" socket for realistically a 3/8" torque wrench to torque the banjo bolt to 25 ft. lb? Really? (I know there are adapters, I'm just saying.) I scientifically torqued mine with a big adjustable wrench.
  • Radium's logo looks great, but if they at least included an option sans the green color that would be nice. Not a big deal, but as that is the only green anywhere in the engine bay, it does stand out - if it weren't for that, the Radium setup would totally blend in and look factory.
 
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